On arriving at Vindolanda we were met by one of the archaeologists who gave us a brief introductory talk about the site. Vindolanda was named by the Tungrians a Belgian cohort who were the first to arrive at the site in the winter between 75-85AD. The name Vindolanda means white field or moor. The fort pre dates the wall, being built from stone quarried locally, to protect the Stanegate the road slightly to the north of the site, which runs from Corbridge to Carlisle.
The fort has been rebuilt nine times over the years, this makes the archaeology interesting but difficult to interpret as the new buildings were not built directly on top of the previous one. The fort follows the usual Roman playing card pattern. It is surrounded by walls which are still extant to about 1 ½ m. It contains granaries, barracks, and more unusually inside a fort a temple, this one dedicated to Jupiter Dolichenus, a weather god (perhaps seen as necessary by the continental soldiers living at the fort). The principia or commandant’s headquarters has a strong room, which is still visible, as are the two bath houses outside the walls. The archaeologists and volunteers are currently working on excavating the vicus, the large village outside the fort which grew up to service the soldier’s needs.
Archaeologists know that when digging Roman sites, they find many artefacts. Just before we arrived a volunteer had found a brooch, and whilst we were there volunteers were finding lots of black burnished ware a type of pot made on an industrial scale in the Nene Valley.
The Vindolanda site is unique because of the preservation of artefacts which would not normally survive. The anaerobic conditions have led to the preservation of many leather products, a sample of which are shown in the museum. They have a stunning collection of shoes and sandals, ranging from the first shoes worn by toddlers, fashion sandals, through to marching boots. Leather tents and horse trappings are other rare discoveries. The most special finds though are the Vindolanda tablets a series of post cards that had been written by the occupants of the fort, these include shopping lists and birthday invitations, so give us a good insight to life on the frontier.
At Lanercost we were met by John Lee the church warden who gave us an entertaining and informative talk on the history of the Priory. Lanercost Priory is a 12th-13th century Augustinian foundation, built largely from blocks stolen from Hadrian’s Wall. It has a turbulent history, being over the years visited by many monarchs from both sides of the border. During 1306-07 Edward I stayed for 6 months and as he had the privy seal with him he ruled England from the Priory. It was not only monarchs who left their mark at Lanercost, the outside of the church is pock marked with musket shot marks left by the local Militia mustered during the Napoleonic invasion scare.
The Monastic house was closed during the Dissolution and the north aisle of the Priory became the Parish church. In the 19th century George Howard 9th Earl of Carlisle commissioned work by leading Arts and Crafts designers, this includes a woollen embroidered Dossel. The Dossel has recently been restored at a cost of £66,000.
We then went to visit the Dacre Hall a late Medieval Hall built by one of the illegitimate children of the Howard family, where we had a welcome and much needed cup of tea and some delicious home-made biscuits.